June 28: Lake Titicaca/Suasi Island

This would be a day to remember. We were up early. After breakfast we were led to the hotel's dock to meet the boat that would take us across the lake. We made a short stop to pick up two other passengers, a couple from England about our age. Our tour guide was a young woman from Puno, Yvonne. There were two crew members.

The boat traveled for 45 minutes before stopping at one of the Uros floating islands. These islands have been around for hundreds of years. They are made of tortora reeds that grow along the shores of the lake. Reeds need to be added periodically, as they rot from the bottom. The natives showed us how thick the islands were - about 5 feet or so, as I recall. They sit on water about 20 meters deep. When you walk, the feeling is a bit spongy. The guide books say that the islands have become too touristy, with the natives just waiting for the next boatload of foreigners to whom they can sell their crafts. Still, I found the visit entertaining. We saw the inside of the inhabitants' huts (one room, also completely made of tortora), their outdoor cook area (very basic - a small clay-like oven and an open fire for a stove), and a demonstration of how the island is made and maintained. Of course, we did see their handicrafts, and each one of us walked away with a purchase. It was pretty cold that morning and we noticed a thin layer of frost as we sat down on a reed bench to watch one of the demonstrations.

Back on board, we traveled for about two hours to the island of Taquile. This island is about 2 miles wide and 6 miles long, with a steep peak rising in the middle. The town sits at the top of the island. I was a bit disappointed that we were not staying long enough to allow for a hike to the top and a chance to see the village. The people of Taquile live a very traditional life and I thought it would be worth it to see the town. Still, we stopped at a small landing where a group of locals met us. On Taquile, all the women weave and all the men knit. Everyone wears their traditional clothes. We saw a little demonstration of how the weaving and knitting is done. Soon it was time for us to move on.

After another 2 hours or so, we arrived at Suasi Island. This privately-owned island is only about 1½ - 2 miles long and very narrow. It is truly a garden spot at 13,000 ft! The hotel on the island is constructed of local stone and eucalyptus, is completely solar-powered, and has a wonderful, welcoming staff. All meals are included in the price of the lodging. We sat on the patio and had a lovely lunch in the sunshine, then took a walk around the grounds before heading to our large and comfortable room for a little afternoon nap. At 4:30 we joined the English couple and hotel employee Oscar for a sunset hike to the highest point on the island. Along the way, Oscar explained the flora, fauna, and history of the area. We arrived at the top just before sunset. As you can see in the photo below, there's a rock pile at the very summit. You see these in many parts of Peru. Oscar explained that they are for making offerings to the earth. So each one of us placed a stone on the offering. It all seemed to fit with the mood of the surroundings. The sunset was quiet and beautiful. Can't you tell from the picture that I was in a state of bliss?

That night we had a lovely dinner in the cozy dining room, then moved outside where another hotel employee, Antonio, had set up a telescope for viewing the full moon. When we returned to the room there was a nice blaze in the woodstove in the corner that kept us warm all night.