Monday, July 9, 2007

July 3: Colca - Arequipa

This was our last full day in Peru.

We left the Colca Lodge at about 9:00 am for the return trip to Arequipa. As we were checking out of the hotel, a large group of seniors from Quebec was gathering for their hike to the bottom of the canyon. The group would then spend the night at the bottom of the canyon, do some exploring there, then hike back up to the top in a couple of days. I was impressed! I was getting pretty winded and out of breath from the little hiking we had done, but these people were really going for it. And they had already completed the Inca Trail the week before!

After leaving the lodge, we took a different route out of the valley, past what is called the “amphitheater” (an area of ancient agricultural terracing), and into the little town of Coporaque. This is another lovely little Colca village with a pretty main square. In one corner of the square there’s a white colonial-era church that is being renovated courtesy of the Spanish government. We went inside the church, but most of the altars and shrines were covered because of the extensive restoration project.

After that stop we headed straight for Arequipa, where we arrived about 1pm. After lunch by the hotel pool, we used our Fodor’s guide to do a walking tour of the historic center of the city. We made it to the other side of the swift-flowing Chili River to see some of those neighborhoods. We walked through some of the large colonial-era buildings with their extensive network of courtyards. Most of these homes now house businesses, schools and cultural centers. In the late afternoon we had a drink (agua con gas, my standard Peruvian drink) at a rooftop terrace bar overlooking the Plaza de Armas and the cathedral.

Our last dinner in Peru was at an Italian/Peruvian restaurant called Zingaro (gypsy in Italian). Both of us had this terrific chicken and rice soup with lemon and fresh herbs. I ate so much soup in Peru! I think it was because the altitude had curbed my appetite and it was one light wholesome food that I could handle. One of our tour guides – I think it was Wagner at Machu Picchu – said that you digest your food at a slower rate at high altitudes.

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