June 20: San Francisco - Lima

We had a nearly two-hour delay at the very disorganized Miami airport. So our flight didn't arrive in Lima until just after midnight local time. After a long wait to get through immigration and an even longer wait for our luggage, we exited customs and immigration and faced a huge waiting crowd. By this time it was after 1am. The hotel I booked was supposed to send a driver to pick us up, but given the late hour, I was doubting that anyone would be there waiting for us. Still, I scanned the crowd looking for my name on one of the many signs being held up. Taxi drivers kept trying to get our attention, hoping to snag a fare. I kept looking for my name as we wandered further into the crowd, and then Jim spotted my last name on one of the signs! Unbelievable! Maybe the hotel called the airline and so they knew about our late arrival. We introduced ourselves to the driver, Jose, who grabbed Betsy's bag and led us to the car.

The drive from the airport to the hotel in Miraflores took about a half-hour, even at that late hour with no traffic (there are no airport hotels in Lima). We drove through an area of shops and residences, not too attractive, but no shock to us either - we were prepared for the generally unappealing nature of the city. After skirting along the coast, the driver took us up a steep hill into the Miraflores district, where most of the tourist hotels and shops are located. I wasn't too impressed with Miraflores, either - at least what I saw from the car at 2am. But fortunately our hotel was located on a quiet residential street, we checked in, and were in bed by 2:25am.

June 21: Lima - Cusco

We were up by 6:15, with just 4 hours of sleep. Our hotel in Miraflores, the San Antonio Abad, appeared to be in a predominantly residential area. As I expected, the winter cloud cover, or garúa as the limeños call it, made for a gray and misty dawn. We had no plans to stay in Lima more than one night. The guide books say that under all the grit and grime Lima actually has some wonderful sights for the tourist, and I don't doubt it, but we headed straight for the Andes.

As the LAN Peru flight began its descent into Cusco, I looked out the left side of the plane at a perfectly blue sky that served as a backdrop for several ice-and-snow-covered peaks. What a thrilling introduction to the Andes. As soon as the plane landed and we were making our way across the tarmac to the terminal, I began to feel the effects of the altitude (Cusco is at 11,500 ft). Nothing serious, just lightheadedness and a slight goofy feeling. The air was dry, slightly warm, and mountain clear.

I had the taxi driver stop at the Wanchaq train station on the way to the hotel so that we could pick up our train tickets for Machu Picchu for the following day. Then we went directly to the Niños Hotel.

What a pleasant hotel that turned out to be, with a lovely courtyard and incredibly sweet staff. The photo shows all three of us in the hotel courtyard.

We got settled in our rooms on the ground floor, and after a short rest, ventured into the streets. Cusco was in the midst of celebrations and preparations for the annual Inti Raymi (or winter solstice) festival, which would climax the following Sunday with an elaborate ceremony at the Sacsayhuaman fortress ruins above the town.
We worked our way through the Plaza de Armas, where all sorts of folkloric dance troupes were parading past what appeared to be a judges' review. The historic center of Cusco is very impressive. Of course you will see some of the Inca masonry supporting colonial architecture. But you will also see winding streets, beautiful painted doorways, and carved balconies reminiscent of Seville or Granada. But the city has a character all its own. Despite the huge concentration of souvenir stalls and tourist shops, the town is attractive, and the historical center very clean.

We walked up a narrow, steep street to a small restaurant, Granja Heidi, that was recommended by the hotel staff for a light lunch.The second-floor dining room of the restaurant is attractive and flooded with natural light. After lunch, we headed back to the hotel for naps.

I woke up before Jim and Betsy and walked a few blocks to the Cultural Institute to see if I could purchase our entry tickets for Machu Picchu for the next day. Unfortunately, my guide book gave the wrong hours for the office that sells the tickets, and they were closed by the time I got there just before 5pm. At this point it was starting to get dark and I could feel a headache coming on. I figured it must be a symptom of altitude sickness, or soroche, as the locals call it.

By the time the three of us sat down to dinner, my head was pounding, I was having chills, and had lost my appetite. I ordered a bowl of soup that turned out to be too rich and spicy. I just had some of the broth. I was in such agony that could not participate in the most basic conversation. On our way back to the hotel, I thought I was going to be sick in the streets. But we made it back to the hotel, where I immediately got into bed and went to sleep. Although soroche would return to bother me over the next few days, it never got as bad again as it was that first night.

June 22: Cusco - Machu Picchu

I woke from my long soroche-induced sleep to find my headache nearly gone. No more chills or nausea, either. Still, I moved slowly, feeling vulnerable and afraid that the symptoms would return. We left the Niños Hotel at 8:00am, picked up by Abram, the taxi driver we would use over the next few days. The 1½-hour cab ride to Ollantaytambo, to catch our train to Machu Picchu, cost us about $30. Abram turned out to be a friendly fellow who was easy to chat with. I found out that he is a native of Cusco, that he grew up speaking Quechua, and that to this day his mother still speaks only Quechua, no Spanish.

The road out of Cusco ascends a ridge, drops down to a valley, then ascends again before the final descent into the Sacred Valley. From one end to the other, the valley is beautiful. We arrived in Ollantaytambo in plenty of time to catch the train. Betsy and Jim had seats in the very front of the train with a large window right in front of them, which turned out to be quite a treat since the views from the train were spectacular. I was just a couple of rows behind them on the right side. As you proceed down the valley, the vegetation becomes greener and fuller, the walls of the valley narrowing until you are in a leafy gorge with the swift-flowing Urubamba/Vilcanota river making its way down the mountains to the jungle to the east. By the time you reach Aguas Calientes the mountains are covered in leafy vegetation, with flowers and butterflies in abundance. You have descended from Cusco, about 11,500 feet, to about 6,500 feet, and the difference is notable in the quality of the air and light.

We had a 1:30 appointment to meet our guide, Wagner, at the checkpoint just before you enter Machu Picchu. He was there, on time, and our tour began. It was a good idea to hire a guide for our introduction to the ruins, as there are very few signs telling you what you're looking at. Wagner had a historical/scientific view of Machu Picchu and Inca history in general and scoffed at those who think the place is a source of spiritual energy. He pointed out the agricultural and structural terracing, the two urban centers, and gave us a pretty detailed account of the the Sun Temple and how astronomical observations were used to construct its orientation to the sunrise over the peaks to the east. This orientation was especially important during the summer and winter solstices, when the rays of the rising sun pinpoint specific areas inside the temple.

After our 2½ hour tour, we said goodbye to Wagner and explored the ruins on our own. The afternoon light was perfect for photos, and we were able to explore the city after the vast majority of tourists had already left. The setting of Machu Picchu is stunning. It sits high on a spur with the Urubamba/Vilcanota River making a large loop at its base, thousands of feet below. The Andean peaks in this area on the eastern slopes are covered in vegetation and the air is more humid than in Cusco because of its orientation toward the jungle. Snow-capped peaks sparkle in the distance.

June 23: Machu Picchu - Ollantaytambo

Our next day allowed us plenty of time to explore Machu Picchu on our own. Our guide from the previous day warned us that the early buses from Aguas Calientes to the ruins could be very crowded, with everyone wanting to get to Machu Picchu to see the sunrise. We decided to take a 7:30 bus, which was fine. By the time we got through the entrance, the clouds were rising from the valley and the view was spectacular. But we missed the sunrise.

This was a day for hiking and enjoying the splendid vistas. Truly, in every direction you turn, you are delighted with a view of the Inca ruins, precipitous peaks covered in lush foliage, sparkling blue skies, and snow-covered mountaintops in the distance.

We first walked up to the Watchman's Hut, which offers the postcard view of Machu Picchu with the peak of Huayna Picchu in the background. I actually found the afternoon light better for pictures from this vantage point (the photo above was a late morning shot).

From the hut, we proceeded up the Inca Trail to the Sun Gate, or Intipunku. This was a beautiful hike up a long steadily ascending path. The views along the way and at the top were stunning. I recommend this hike, which can be done at a slow pace without being too strenuous. We saw people in their late 60s and possibly even older making their way up the trail, slowly and steadily. There is actually an Inca stone gate at the very top of the ridge. The gate is the point at which the sun rises and shines its rays into the citadel's Sun Temple during the summer solstice, December 21.

At the top we rested, took in the view, as did other hikers. This is the ideal spot to stop for a little merienda, or snack. On the other side of the ridge the Inca Trail continues as it descends into a lush valley. Actually, the Sun Gate is considered the end of the Inca Trail. Organized groups who walk the trail (it's a three-night, four-day journey) time their hiking so they arrive at the gate at sunrise.

After our walk back to the ruins, we passed through the checkpoint for the ascent to Huayna Picchu. We didn't make it all the way to the top; if fact, when we came to a fork in the trail, we chose the left passage, which after a short climb led us to a very private area of Inca terraces with nice views of MP and the river gorge below, as well as 360º mountain vistas.

We made it back to Aguas Calientes in time for a late lunch on the main plaza. Then, before retrieving our bags from the hostal, we passed an hour or so in the local marketplace. Back again at the train station, we waited for our train - the Vistadome Valley, which departed at 4:45 for Ollantaytambo. On board, we were treated to a fashion show (with disco music, no less!) featuring the attendants modeling alpaca sweaters.

Arrival in Ollantaytambo was in the dark. But, there was the representative from the Hotel Sauce (pronounced SAW say), holding a sign with my name on it. Throughout our trip, we were impressed with how dependable the Peruvian people were. If they said they were going to be at a certain spot at a given time, they were there. The man from the hotel grabbed Betsy's suitcase, hoisted it on his shoulders and led us on a rather speedy walk to the hotel. We rushed to keep up with our greeter, confused a bit by the commotion of cars, vans, buses, headlights, other pedestrians, and dust.

The Hotel Sauce turned out to be quite a nice little retreat for us, with quiet rooms and comfortable beds. Betsy got a corner room with a "cama matrimonial" which she seemed to love.

More views of Machu Picchu:

View of Machu Picchu from our hike up to the Sun Gate.

Below: Jim and Betsy on the trail near Huayna Picchu.

June 24: Ollantaytambo - Pisac - Cusco

After breakfast we visited the lovely town and its imposing Inca fortress. In 1537, the Incas were able to repel the Spaniards from here. The Spanish conquistadores were in pursuit of the rebel Inca Manco Inca. He had been the Spaniard's puppet after the death of Atahualpa, but he finally revolted against the conquerors. After a battle at the fortress of Sacsayhuaman outside Cusco, the Inca leader and his followers retreated to the Ollantaytambo fortress, which the Spaniards could not penetrate.
It is quite a climb from the town to the top of the fortress. As you get closer to the top, the Inca stonework becomes more impressive. Once you reach the very top, you have views of the valley stretching out in two directions. A young boy dressed in a traditional cloak, sitting on a low stone wall, offered to sing a song to us in Quechua. We obliged him, and gave him a couple of soles for his efforts.
At 10:30 Abram showed up in his taxi to take us back to Cusco. On the way, we stopped at the Sunday market in Pisac. This weekly market is written up in most guidebooks as a "do not miss" attraction. It is impressive in size and in the variety of items for sell - from pots and pans to potatoes to handicrafts. We all bought these lovely gourds with scenes carved into them. We were introduced to the standard bargaining that goes on in all Peruvian markets. When Betsy hestitated for just a moment in selecting a piece to purchase, one woman looked her in the eye, said with a sigh, "Amiga!" and quickly dropped the price by 5 soles.
After the market we told Abram that we'd like to see the Pisac ruins above the town. The road climbs steeply and reaches a small parking lot that connects to a trail that takes you up to the ruins. We hired a young man, Ruben, to guide us through the ruins. As we walked up the trail, he pulled out his wooden flute and played for us - a nice touch. Again, our steep walk to the top was rewarded by fantastic views in all directions.
The ride back to Cusco was via a different route than the one we had taken before - very scenic. About an hour after leaving Pisac, we arrived at the outskirts of the city, driving past other Inca ruins, then past the Sacsayhuaman fortess where the Inti Raymi festival was just ending. When we saw the crowds and the traffic, we were glad that we skipped the festival in favor of a nice afternoon in the Sacred Valley.
That night we ate dinner at a little restaurant Nuna Raymi. This restaurant was so good and the staff so friendly that we would return there the next night for drinks and then again our final night in Cusco for dinner. The owners are young South Americans who've had restaurant training in the U.S. and speak excellent English. The food was so good and so moderately priced! Jim and Betsy had the trout in parchment and I had a lovely filet mignon. Appetizers consisted of taqueños (little pastry rolls filled with local cheese and served with avocado) and a yummy Peruvian-style tabouli. After dinner we went back to the hotel and had tea in the cozy, candle-lit cafe, with a cheery fire in the corner fireplace to warm us.

Below: Views of Ollantaytambo - town and fortress.

June 25: Cusco/Sacsayhuaman

This was the first full day we had in Cusco. After breakfast we headed to the Qoricancha/Santo Domingo complex. The Qoricancha was the prinipal structure of Inca Cusco. Before the Spanish conquest, it was the main religious and royal center of the city. Inside it contained temples dedicated to the moon, sun, and stars. The individual temples were decorated with gold emblems and carvings, most of which were offered to the Spanish as a ransom for the release of the Inca leader Atahualpa (he was nonetheless executed by the conquistadores and the gold was melted down and sent back to Spain!).

After the conquest, the Spanish began to dismantle the complex to make way for a church, but they found the Inca stonework so formidable that they left about 40% of it standing and used it as a foundation for the church, cloister and monastery of Santo Domingo. After the big Cusco earthquake of 1950, more of the Inca structure was exposed and so now the visitor can get a pretty good idea of the layout of the original complex.

We returned to Granja Heidi for lunch, then met Irene, the guide we had at Qoricancha, so she could take us on what best can be described as a "shopping scavenger hunt." Betsy ended up with a lovely silver pendant with images of the Nasca lines on it, and Jim and I each bought a baby alpaca scarf (which would serve us well later in the trip).

We had one more major site to see that day: Sacsayhuaman, the great Inca fortress. This fortress sits on a high hill overlooking the city. We climbed a steep street which then turned into a steep trail, which then blended with a stairway to finally get to the top. Both the view of the city and the ruins themselves are impressive. The fortress was built in a zig-zag formation to make it more impregnable. The stones used are the largest of any Inca structure. The picture of me and Betsy doesn't really give a good idea of the scale of these giant stones, polished so they fit together perfectly, and still standing after 500 years of ransacking, earthquakes, and battles.

Before dinner we toured the foundation that the Niños Hotel supports for poor children in the Cusco area. The foundation serves approximately 500 children. According to Gladys, the hotel receptionist who gave us the tour, these children come from the most abject poverty: houses made of mud brick with no electricity or running water. The foundation has actually opened another center in a separate neighborhood because of the large number of children it now serves. The children are fed nutritious meals, given dental and medical care, and receive help with their schoolwork.



Typical street scene in Cusco (pay the ladies when you take their picture!)

June 26: Cusco

This was Betsy's last day in Peru. We set out early in the morning to visit the San Blas neighborhood. This is the area of Cusco well-known for galleries, artisan workshops, and winding cobbled streets. To reach the neighborhood, you walk about 5 or 10 minutes up a hill from the Plaza de Armas.

There's a lovely square in the center of the barrio. And we did find many nice specialty shops. One in particular had some very unusual wood, fabric, and papier-maché religious figures. We also wandered into ceramics shops and art galleries, and finally, up a narrow street, we found an artist busy in his very basic taller, or workshop. This guy had quite a collection of paintings that he did on paper he makes right there in the shop. He uses newspapers, bleaches out the ink, then rolls out the pulp and dries it on a screen. Most of his images were based on petroglyphs found in Peru near Nasca. We bought one and Betsy bought two.

Lunch was at a place called Jack's. I guess you'd call it a gringo restaurant, and it was filled with tourists from all over the world, including many backpacker types. The food was quite good. I ordered the pumpkin soup and we shared an order of fries. Did I mention that Peru is the birthplace of the potato and that over 2000 varieties are grown there? And they are very tasty! The restaurant had its very own dog-in-residence: a well-behaved and friendly boxer who obviously felt very comfortable near Betsy.

Jim and I rode with Betsy in the taxi to the airport and waited with her until it was time for her to go through security. I think she was sorry to leave and would have liked more time in Peru. We had a great time traveling with her. She had an overnight flight from Lima to Miami, and then a morning flight back to San Francisco.

Later that afternoon, Jim and I met up with a family that I knew from the school where I work. Mom, Dad and both their sons (who are now teenagers) had just completed the Inca trail the day before, and were staying one more day in Cusco before heading home. So we had a cup of hot chocolate together and heard about their adventures on the trail. Despite the strenuousness of the hiking and the altitude sickness, they loved the experience. On the trail, you get to see Inca ruins only accessible by hiking, and I've heard that the natural scenery is breathtaking. I just don't know if I could sleep on the ground for three nights and go that long without a shower.

For dinner, we returned to Nuna Raymi and had an excellent meal. I tried the alpaca steak (very mild and tender) and Jim had the steak I recommended from our first meal there. Once again, the staff treated us so well and were so friendly and accommodating. We missed Betsy at this point and wished she had been able to enjoy this last dinner in Cusco with us. The owner/waiter, Victor, and his sister-in-law Carol chatted with us as we made our way through the different courses. We learned that they had worked many ski seasons at a restaurant in Park City, Utah. Their dream, however, was to return to South America to open a restaurant of their own. I highly recommend Nuna Raymi to any visitor to Cusco.

June 27: Cusco - Puno

June 27
My Birthday. The Andean Explorer (the PeruRail train from Cusco to Puno) departed at 8am for the long 10-hour trip south to the shores of Lake Titicaca. The train trip offers great vistas of the altiplano. The altiplano is just what the name in Spanish signifies: a high plain. At this time of year- the dry winter - the skies are clear, the air bone dry, the land parched, with scrub and grasses the only vegetation you see. The high, snow-capped Andes surround the huge expanses of open space. The terrain is in contrast to the much more verdant Sacred Valley outside Cusco.

The train stopped for only ten minutes at La Raya, the highest point on the Cusco-Puno route at just over 14,000 feet. La Raya consists of a small church and marketplace near the railway- no more. Vendors have their crafts on display and are ready to make deals during the short visit there. The photo of Jim was taken at La Raya.

You can get up and move from car to car on the train. The club car in the rear has dome windows for viewing the scenery and an open area at the very back of the train for enjoying the fresh air and for watching the altiplano as you make your way to Juliaca (the only other stop en route) and finally to Puno.

Darkness had set in by the time we arrived in Puno. A cab took us directly to our hotel, the Casa Andina Private Collection. This hotel was the most modern and American-style of any we had stayed in so far, with TV, phone, heat you could regulate, a restaurant, bar, and large staff. By the time we arrived there I was suffering from my second bout of soroche, though not nearly as bad as the first one in Cusco. After a light dinner in the hotel restaurant and a little more shopping at a small tortora reed kiosk set up outside the hotel by the shores of the lake (a freezing night!), we turned in early. We had to rise at 5:30 the next morning for our departure to the floating islands, Isla Taquille, and Isla Suasi.

June 28: Lake Titicaca/Suasi Island

This would be a day to remember. We were up early. After breakfast we were led to the hotel's dock to meet the boat that would take us across the lake. We made a short stop to pick up two other passengers, a couple from England about our age. Our tour guide was a young woman from Puno, Yvonne. There were two crew members.

The boat traveled for 45 minutes before stopping at one of the Uros floating islands. These islands have been around for hundreds of years. They are made of tortora reeds that grow along the shores of the lake. Reeds need to be added periodically, as they rot from the bottom. The natives showed us how thick the islands were - about 5 feet or so, as I recall. They sit on water about 20 meters deep. When you walk, the feeling is a bit spongy. The guide books say that the islands have become too touristy, with the natives just waiting for the next boatload of foreigners to whom they can sell their crafts. Still, I found the visit entertaining. We saw the inside of the inhabitants' huts (one room, also completely made of tortora), their outdoor cook area (very basic - a small clay-like oven and an open fire for a stove), and a demonstration of how the island is made and maintained. Of course, we did see their handicrafts, and each one of us walked away with a purchase. It was pretty cold that morning and we noticed a thin layer of frost as we sat down on a reed bench to watch one of the demonstrations.

Back on board, we traveled for about two hours to the island of Taquile. This island is about 2 miles wide and 6 miles long, with a steep peak rising in the middle. The town sits at the top of the island. I was a bit disappointed that we were not staying long enough to allow for a hike to the top and a chance to see the village. The people of Taquile live a very traditional life and I thought it would be worth it to see the town. Still, we stopped at a small landing where a group of locals met us. On Taquile, all the women weave and all the men knit. Everyone wears their traditional clothes. We saw a little demonstration of how the weaving and knitting is done. Soon it was time for us to move on.

After another 2 hours or so, we arrived at Suasi Island. This privately-owned island is only about 1½ - 2 miles long and very narrow. It is truly a garden spot at 13,000 ft! The hotel on the island is constructed of local stone and eucalyptus, is completely solar-powered, and has a wonderful, welcoming staff. All meals are included in the price of the lodging. We sat on the patio and had a lovely lunch in the sunshine, then took a walk around the grounds before heading to our large and comfortable room for a little afternoon nap. At 4:30 we joined the English couple and hotel employee Oscar for a sunset hike to the highest point on the island. Along the way, Oscar explained the flora, fauna, and history of the area. We arrived at the top just before sunset. As you can see in the photo below, there's a rock pile at the very summit. You see these in many parts of Peru. Oscar explained that they are for making offerings to the earth. So each one of us placed a stone on the offering. It all seemed to fit with the mood of the surroundings. The sunset was quiet and beautiful. Can't you tell from the picture that I was in a state of bliss?

That night we had a lovely dinner in the cozy dining room, then moved outside where another hotel employee, Antonio, had set up a telescope for viewing the full moon. When we returned to the room there was a nice blaze in the woodstove in the corner that kept us warm all night.

June 29: Suasi Island - Arequipa

We slept well in our woodstove-heated room. I think it was the best night's sleep I'd had since arriving in Peru. Since the hotel is completely solar-powered, and there are no cars on the island, you can enjoy perfect quiet.

After breakfast, we took a walk around the island, from one end to the other, enjoying the views from the hillsides, and one particularly nice beach. Once again, we saw some of the wild vicuñas that live on the island. I think the herd has a total of 9 or 10 specimens.

When we returned to the hotel lobby, Oscar introduced us to the owner of the island, Marta. She walked us to the cultural center and library that she had set up and gave us a guided tour of the center, which explains the flora, fauna, and history of the island, as well as the efforts she has made to populate the island with native plants and animals. She has been replacing the invasive and non-native eucalyptus trees with native plants and trees, and has introduced the vicuñas, alpacas and viscachas to the island. The viscacha is an Andean rabbit that has a tail like a squirrel. Unfortunately, we never saw one, not on Suasi nor anywhere else.

Our departure from the island was just before lunch, about 11:30. The tour company we used to book the hotel had arranged for a private car to pick us up on the northeast shore of the lake, at a little landing just a ten-minute zodiac ride from the island. Antonio was on hand to send us off. When we reached the shore, the driver (César) and the van were waiting for us. This side of Lake Titicaca is the most remote and least populated part of the lake. César explained that the road was in very bad shape and that we'd have to travel very slowly and carefully. Actually, the road was a nightmare. Several times during the trip César had to get out of the van to check the tires, and once he had to stop to remove large rocks from the road. Still, the scenery was quite nice.

On Suasi Island, Oscar explained that this road is used twice a week by black marketeers from the city of Juliaca. They use a caravan of large trucks that stretches for miles, bringing the contraband from Bolivia to Juliaca. They travel heavily armed and no one interferes with them. The border crossing on that side of the lake has no checkpoint. Oscar also explained that Juliaca is one of the major smuggling centers of South America. He also said it is probably the ugliest city on the continent as well, and when we drove through the city later in the day to get to the airport, we saw what he was talking about. It's like a wild, lawless frontier town. Many of the buildings are makeshift mud brick structures and most streets are not paved. In fact, the streets have debris piled up on either side. But I guess you can get a fairly authentic-looking Rolex knock-off there.

Our flight from Juliaca to Arequipa was short - only 24 minutes in the air according to Jim's calculations. When we landed it was dusk, but you could still make out the huge volcanoes that loom over the city. These mountains are between 19,000 and 20,000 feet. The taxi driver dropped us off at our hotel, the Libertador, a short taxi ride from the center of town in a parklike setting called the Selva Alegre. Since it was already dark, we decided to stay in the hotel for dinner and retire early.

June 30: Arequipa

The weather was so pleasant that we had our breakfast outside by the hotel pool. The guidebooks say that Arequipa's climate is similar to southern California's. Arequipa is at about 7500 feet, and the climate is the same all year: dry and sunny. The city doesn't have a water problem since there are so many swift-flowing rivers and streams carrying water down from the high mountains. Just like in every other part of Peru, however, the tap water is not suitable for drinking.

The main square of Arequipa (the Plaza de Armas) was about a 10 to 15 minute walk from our hotel. It is a lovely square, landscaped with lawns, flower beds, and palm trees. Surrounding the plaza on three sides is a portico, and on one side is the cathedral. The cathedral suffered pretty severe damage during the earthquake of 2001, but has been completely repaired.

The morning was spent at the covent of Santa Catalina. The guidebooks say that the convent is the most significant colonial structure in Peru and perhaps in all of South America. It is actually more like a small city than a convent. The complex takes up over 5 city blocks. It looks like a small Andalucian village, with brightly painted structures, flower-filled courtyards and lovely little squares complete with fountains. It was opened in 1579 by the Dominican order as a cloistered convent for women from upper-class Spanish families. In those days, wealthy Spanish families would generally:

• Marry the eldest daughter off to the son of another wealthy family;



• Send the second daughter to the convent;



• Keep the third daughter a spinster so she could take care of the parents in their old age.
  

Most definitely, the daughter who went to the convent got the best deal. She took her servants to the convent with her, was educated, and lived a rather comfortable (although cloistered) life.

We had a light lunch in the convent's restaurant, then went to the other great tourist site of Arequipa, the Museum of the Universidad Católica de Santa María, home of "Juanita, the Ice Maiden of Ampato." Juanita is the frozen body of a young Inca girl who was sacrificed at the top of Mount Ampato probably sometime in the 15th century. She was discovered in the early 1990s during a geological expedition to the summit of the mountain. The geologists were looking at the effect of a nearby volcanic eruption on the ice fields and glaciers on Ampato. The ash fall had caused some of the ice and snow to melt. And that is how they discovered Juanita. She fell about 60 feet from the place where she had been entombed for 500 years and was exposed on the mountainside.

The museum, in addition to the still frozen Juanita, boasts a nice collection of artifacts that were found with her in her icy tomb, as well as other artifacts from other tombs of sacrificial victims.

July 1: Arequipa - Colca Canyon

Before leaving California, I’d made arrangements with a tour agency in Arequipa for a three-day, two-night trip to the Colca Canyon. At 8:00 am, the van, the driver (Roberto), and the tour guide (Jorge) were waiting for us in front of the hotel.

We left Arequipa on a well-maintained road, heading west out of the city and making a big loop around the volcanoes just to the north of town. Arequipa is the second-largest city in Peru, with a population of about a million. It is also the most prosperous large city in the country. I saw some gated communities not far from our hotel, with suburban-style houses not very different from what you’d find in California. Still, as we passed through the outskirts of the city, we saw many poor neighborhoods, with dirt roads and makeshift housing.

The road began to ascend as we went through the pass that leads to the other side of the Misti and Chachani volcanoes. From this point we could see the Ampato volcano as well. The road went up and up, then leveled out as we entered the Salinas y Aguada Blanca National Reserve. The area has some interesting flora and fauna. We passed several groups of vicuñas, then entered the area of the “bofedales”. These are wetlands that are formed by water that bubbles up from the ground. We stopped to get a close look at them and at some of the interesting bird life they attract. We saw groups of ducks and herons, but none of the rare flamingos that also can be seen from time to time. The bofedales had a pretty thick sheet of ice covering them. Jorge threw a rather large rock into one of the bofedales, but it wasn’t able to crack the ice. Though the day wasn’t terribly cold, the previous night had to have been well below freezing to form ice that thick.

Once again we ascended, finally making it to the summit – the “Mirador de los Andes” – the lookout of the Andes. At this point we had reached 4,910 meters – about 15,250 feet if I’m not mistaken. From this point you can see a large number of the major peaks of the southern Andes of Peru – most reaching to 19,000 feet or more. At the top, Jorge pointed out an unusual plant that grows in this area – la yareta. The yareta only grows in areas that are over 4,000 meters, and it grows very slowly – only about a centimeter a year. It is a vibrant green and shaped like a rock or stone. It can live even when covered in snow and can survive temperatures as low as -25 degrees centigrade.

From the Mirador we descended into the Colca Valley, stopping in the town of Chivay – the largest settlement in the Colca area. It probably has a population of about 3,000. We had lunch in town, and afterwards walked around its pretty main square. Then we drove further into the valley, passing through another nice town, Yanque, before arriving at the Colca Lodge.







The Colca Lodge is in a great setting along the Colca River. The grounds are expansive, with lots of hiking trails along the river and in the hills. Guests can also enjoy the natural mineral pools that perch above the river and offer fine views of the valley. There’s a lovely dining room with a huge fireplace, and an attractive bar, also with a large fireplace. We were very happy that the staff kept roaring fires going in the evenings, which can get pretty cold in the valley.

July 2: Cruz del Condor/Colca Canyon

We left the Colca Lodge about 6:30 am in order to make the long drive on dirt roads to the Cruz del Condor – the lookout point from which you can view the Andean condors, the largest flying bird on earth. On the way to the lookout we stopped in Yanque to see the Spanish colonial church and its impressive façade. The morning was cold and clear. We were bundled in our sweaters, new baby alpaca scarves, hats and windbreakers. We stopped a couple of more times, once to view the Inca tombs in the cliff face and another time to take in an impressive view from one of the lookouts.

When we arrived at the Cruz del Condor, there were already a number of people there. I’d say that in all about 100 people showed up that morning to see the condors. The birds live in caves in the cliff below the lookout and they’re so large they cannot initiate flight on their own – they need the help of the morning thermals. The thermals are the layers of warm air that the birds use to ascend to the top of the canyon and beyond in their daily scavenging. As the morning warms up, the birds are able to glide higher and higher.

I really didn’t know what to expect from this site, but once there at the edge of the canyon (which in itself is worth the journey), watching these birds with their 10 and 11 foot wingspan sail right past me, I was awestruck. It was one of the most impressive encounters with the natural world that I’ve ever had. The rest of the crowd must have felt the same way, because a wonderful hush and silence fell over the crowd as the giant birds glided past us.

We saw maybe twenty or so condors. Then we took a 45-minute to 1-hour hike along the edge of the canyon up to a point where the trail met the road and we met up with the van and driver. On our return trip to the Colca Lodge we stopped in the little town of Maca to see its very pretty colonial church and to visit a small outdoor market in the center of town. The government of Spain is paying for the renovation of many of these colonial churches, which up until recently had been in disrepair. We were able to see only the outside of the church, as the interior is undergoing restoration.

We returned to the lodge, had a late lunch on the patio, took a short hike, and then visited the hot springs by the river. We chatted for a time with a couple from Barcelona who were also enjoying the pools. Jim did a pretty good job of following the conversation in Spanish, and was able to chime in now and then in English. Jim says my Spanish is easy to understand and that was how he was able to follow the thread of the conversation.

The colonial church in Maca.

July 3: Colca - Arequipa

This was our last full day in Peru.

We left the Colca Lodge at about 9:00 am for the return trip to Arequipa. As we were checking out of the hotel, a large group of seniors from Quebec was gathering for their hike to the bottom of the canyon. The group would then spend the night at the bottom of the canyon, do some exploring there, then hike back up to the top in a couple of days. I was impressed! I was getting pretty winded and out of breath from the little hiking we had done, but these people were really going for it. And they had already completed the Inca Trail the week before!

After leaving the lodge, we took a different route out of the valley, past what is called the “amphitheater” (an area of ancient agricultural terracing), and into the little town of Coporaque. This is another lovely little Colca village with a pretty main square. In one corner of the square there’s a white colonial-era church that is being renovated courtesy of the Spanish government. We went inside the church, but most of the altars and shrines were covered because of the extensive restoration project.

After that stop we headed straight for Arequipa, where we arrived about 1pm. After lunch by the hotel pool, we used our Fodor’s guide to do a walking tour of the historic center of the city. We made it to the other side of the swift-flowing Chili River to see some of those neighborhoods. We walked through some of the large colonial-era buildings with their extensive network of courtyards. Most of these homes now house businesses, schools and cultural centers. In the late afternoon we had a drink (agua con gas, my standard Peruvian drink) at a rooftop terrace bar overlooking the Plaza de Armas and the cathedral.

Our last dinner in Peru was at an Italian/Peruvian restaurant called Zingaro (gypsy in Italian). Both of us had this terrific chicken and rice soup with lemon and fresh herbs. I ate so much soup in Peru! I think it was because the altitude had curbed my appetite and it was one light wholesome food that I could handle. One of our tour guides – I think it was Wagner at Machu Picchu – said that you digest your food at a slower rate at high altitudes.

July 4: Arequipa - San Francisco

We spent the morning packing our bags and trying to make room for all the Peruvian goodies we had picked up over the past two weeks. After breakfast we set out one more time to tour the city. We stopped at the San Francisco Convent and joined a couple from Spain for a brief tour of the church, cloister, and monastery. The guide conducted the tour in Spanish, so I whispered translations to Jim as we went through the complex. Here are a couple of the pictures we took there:

We had lunch at an outdoor restaurant, La Quinta, not far from the hotel. We took a taxi at about 2:00pm for the airport. Our flight to Lima ended up being about 90 minutes late, so we wasted time at a terrace restaurant overlooking the runway, spending what few soles we had left.

We were happy to be going home, but knew that this trip to Peru would stay with us as a very unusual and special adventure.

Below: the cantua, the national flower of Peru.