Monday, July 9, 2007

June 23: Machu Picchu - Ollantaytambo

Our next day allowed us plenty of time to explore Machu Picchu on our own. Our guide from the previous day warned us that the early buses from Aguas Calientes to the ruins could be very crowded, with everyone wanting to get to Machu Picchu to see the sunrise. We decided to take a 7:30 bus, which was fine. By the time we got through the entrance, the clouds were rising from the valley and the view was spectacular. But we missed the sunrise.

This was a day for hiking and enjoying the splendid vistas. Truly, in every direction you turn, you are delighted with a view of the Inca ruins, precipitous peaks covered in lush foliage, sparkling blue skies, and snow-covered mountaintops in the distance.

We first walked up to the Watchman's Hut, which offers the postcard view of Machu Picchu with the peak of Huayna Picchu in the background. I actually found the afternoon light better for pictures from this vantage point (the photo above was a late morning shot).

From the hut, we proceeded up the Inca Trail to the Sun Gate, or Intipunku. This was a beautiful hike up a long steadily ascending path. The views along the way and at the top were stunning. I recommend this hike, which can be done at a slow pace without being too strenuous. We saw people in their late 60s and possibly even older making their way up the trail, slowly and steadily. There is actually an Inca stone gate at the very top of the ridge. The gate is the point at which the sun rises and shines its rays into the citadel's Sun Temple during the summer solstice, December 21.

At the top we rested, took in the view, as did other hikers. This is the ideal spot to stop for a little merienda, or snack. On the other side of the ridge the Inca Trail continues as it descends into a lush valley. Actually, the Sun Gate is considered the end of the Inca Trail. Organized groups who walk the trail (it's a three-night, four-day journey) time their hiking so they arrive at the gate at sunrise.

After our walk back to the ruins, we passed through the checkpoint for the ascent to Huayna Picchu. We didn't make it all the way to the top; if fact, when we came to a fork in the trail, we chose the left passage, which after a short climb led us to a very private area of Inca terraces with nice views of MP and the river gorge below, as well as 360ยบ mountain vistas.

We made it back to Aguas Calientes in time for a late lunch on the main plaza. Then, before retrieving our bags from the hostal, we passed an hour or so in the local marketplace. Back again at the train station, we waited for our train - the Vistadome Valley, which departed at 4:45 for Ollantaytambo. On board, we were treated to a fashion show (with disco music, no less!) featuring the attendants modeling alpaca sweaters.

Arrival in Ollantaytambo was in the dark. But, there was the representative from the Hotel Sauce (pronounced SAW say), holding a sign with my name on it. Throughout our trip, we were impressed with how dependable the Peruvian people were. If they said they were going to be at a certain spot at a given time, they were there. The man from the hotel grabbed Betsy's suitcase, hoisted it on his shoulders and led us on a rather speedy walk to the hotel. We rushed to keep up with our greeter, confused a bit by the commotion of cars, vans, buses, headlights, other pedestrians, and dust.

The Hotel Sauce turned out to be quite a nice little retreat for us, with quiet rooms and comfortable beds. Betsy got a corner room with a "cama matrimonial" which she seemed to love.

More views of Machu Picchu:



View of Machu Picchu from our hike up to the Sun Gate.











Below: Jim and Betsy on the trail near Huayna Picchu.















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